As the Seventh Lord (七爺) and Eighth Lord (八爺) stroll through the streets and alleys, past the low red-brick eaves, the air is filled with the deafening sounds of firecrackers and drumming. On this vibrant holy night in Dadaocheng, the streets are bustling with religious celebrants.
Beiguan (北管) disciples have paraded throughout Taipei’s hundred-year history, the nights resonating with their lively music. Step by step, they follow in the footsteps of their predecessors, traversing the same paths, and praying at full volume to ensure the safety of the place and the well-being of the people.
Now, in the 21st century, urban lifestyles have undergone significant changes, and people no longer understand and think of temple processions (Din Tao) as they did in the past. Established in 1871 (Year 10 of the Tongzhi era), Taipei’s Lingan Society (靈安社) has been designated as a preserver of intangible cultural assets relating to divine beings and Beiguan tradition. The society preserves ancestral deities designated as “general antiquities”, including the Xiahai City God (霞海城隍老祖), the Great King Xiqin (西秦王爺大王), General Hsieh (謝將軍), General Fan (范將軍), Civil Judger (文判官), and Military Judger (武判官).
The most famous event in Dadaocheng, the welcoming of Chenghuang (迎城隍), takes place every year on the 13th day of the fifth lunar month. During the Japanese colonial period, additional train services were laid on to accommodate the crowds of people who would rush from all over Taiwan to take part in the festivities. The Taiwanese saying, “On the 13th day of the fifth month, people watch people,” (五月十三人看人) aptly evokes the lively scenes during the event.
In traditional Taiwanese culture, the Chenghuangye pilgrimage procession follows the ceremonial formation, imitating ancient military and official parades. The procession must be led by divine generals, who are preceded by a Beiguan musical band and accompanied by flags, colorful banners, lanterns, and other items to display their grandeur. Over the past century, the Lingan Society has been devoted to preserving and passing on these three major elements: Beiguan, divine generals, and the sacred palanquin.
The registration of cultural assets bestows new meaning and a sense of identity on this religious organization. It is hoped that it will evoke the memories of urban residents and stir up enthusiasm, ultimately fostering an understanding of the belief that Chenghuangye stands guard over their homes.